What it is
The most common marks are sun spots (lentigines), melasma — symmetrical patches on the forehead, cheeks and upper lip, closely linked to hormones and sun — and the dark marks left by spots or wounds (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation).
They all share one rule: without well-applied daily sun protection, no depigmenting product works. In melasma, visible light also stimulates the pigmentation, and tinted sunscreens (with iron oxides) protect better against it. Cosmetic depigmenting actives — vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, topical tranexamic acid, arbutin — act slowly and lighten rather than erase.
What it needs
Three things:
- Broad-spectrum sun protection every day; tinted if there is melasma
- An active that slows melanin production, with patience: results take months
- No irritation: irritation also darkens the skin, especially in darker skin types
At the counter
When to recommend it
- Sun spots on exposed areas, already assessed
- Diagnosed melasma, as a complement
- Dark marks left by spots
- Prevention in people prone to pigmentation
When not to
- A mark that changes shape, size or colour, bleeds or looks different from the others: refer
- Melasma in pregnancy with retinoids: avoid; always ask
- Products sold as cosmetics containing hydroquinone: it is not permitted in cosmetics in the EU
- Heavy exfoliation to "remove" the spot: it irritates and can darken it
Warnings
- Important A mark that changes shape, size or colour, bleeds or looks different from the others: refer without delay.
- Important Retinoids: avoid in pregnancy, when melasma is common.
- Caution Irritation from too many actives can darken the skin, especially darker skin.
- Caution Melasma tends to return with sun or hormonal changes: maintenance is indefinite.
- Worth knowing In the EU hydroquinone is not permitted in facial cosmetics; it is only used as a prescription medicine.
The routine, step by step
Morning
- Cleanse. Gentle cleanserPrepares the skin without irritating it.
- Antioxidant. Vitamin C or niacinamideThey help lighten and complement sun protection.
- Sunscreen. SPF 50, broad spectrum; tinted if there is melasma; reapply when exposedThe essential piece: without it, nothing works.
Evening
- Cleanse. Remove sunscreen properlyWhat is not cleaned off irritates and stops the rest from working.
- Depigmenting. Azelaic acid, arbutin or topical tranexamic acid; retinol or exfoliating acids on alternate nights if toleratedThey lighten gradually; one at a time to avoid irritation.
- Moisturise. Repairing creamHelps the skin tolerate actives.
Sun spot vs melasma
| Aspect | Sun spot (lentigo) | Melasma |
|---|---|---|
| Appearance | Well-defined brown spot | Diffuse symmetrical patches |
| Where | Exposed areas: face, backs of the hands | Forehead, cheeks, upper lip |
| Factors | Accumulated sun | Hormones, sun and visible light |
| Sunscreen | Broad spectrum | Broad spectrum, ideally tinted |
| Recurrence | Uncommon | Very common |
Both need sunscreen; melasma also needs protection from visible light and constant maintenance.
Self-assessment
Three questions. When you check your answers you will see the explanation for each one.
-
Without sun protection, no depigmenting product works.
-
Visible light also stimulates melasma, and the iron oxides in tinted sunscreens block it.
-
It is a warning sign: not a cosmetic problem.
Training content. It does not replace the summary of product characteristics or clinical judgement.