What it is
With age the skin produces less collagen and lipids, becomes thinner and drier, and wrinkles, sagging and loss of radiance appear. A large share of those changes on the face is due to years of accumulated sun, not just the passing of time.
Among cosmetic actives, those with the most support for improving fine lines and texture are retinoids (retinol, retinal), together with daily sun protection, which stops it progressing. Vitamin C, peptides and humectants add to that, but with more modest results.
What it needs
Three things:
- Daily sun protection: it is what most prevents visible ageing from progressing
- A retinoid at night, introduced gradually: it boosts renewal and improves fine lines and texture
- Richer hydration: mature skin tends to be drier and tolerates actives worse without it
At the counter
When to recommend it
- Fine lines, loss of radiance and uneven texture
- Skin that has become drier with age
- People who want an anti-ageing routine based on what has evidence
- As prevention from the first signs
When not to
- Retinoids on irritated skin, or with eczema or active rosacea
- Lesions that do not heal, scabs that keep returning or changing marks: refer
- Promising that a cream removes deep wrinkles or sagging
- Retinoids in pregnancy or when trying to conceive
Warnings
- Important Lesions that do not heal, scabs that keep returning or changing marks: refer to a doctor.
- Important Retinoids increase sun sensitivity: daily sunscreen.
- Caution Starting a retinoid every night usually irritates: two or three nights a week and build up as tolerated.
- Caution In the EU, retinol in facial cosmetics is limited to 0.3%: higher strengths are not over-the-counter cosmetics.
- Worth knowing No cream matches the effects of a medical-aesthetic treatment: expectations need managing.
The routine, step by step
Morning
- Cleanse. Gentle milk or cream cleanserDo not strip the lipids that are already scarce.
- Antioxidant. Vitamin CComplements sun protection and adds radiance.
- Moisturise. Cream with humectants and lipids (ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid)Improves elasticity and texture.
- Sunscreen. SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrumThe piece that prevents most.
Evening
- Cleanse. Remove sunscreen and make-up properly with a gentle cleansePrepares the skin for the active.
- Retinoid. Retinol (in the EU, at most 0.3% on the face) or retinal, starting two or three nights a weekThe anti-ageing active with the most support; increase as tolerated.
- Rich moisturiser. Rich cream with ceramides or peptidesReduces retinoid irritation.
Retinol vs peptides
| Aspect | Retinol | Peptides |
|---|---|---|
| Evidence for fine lines | The strongest in cosmetics | Modest |
| Irritation | Possible at first | Very low |
| Sun sensitivity | Increases | No |
| Pregnancy | Avoid | No known problem |
| When to choose it | If the skin tolerates it | If retinol is not tolerated or in pregnancy |
Retinol is the reference active; peptides are a gentler alternative with less support.
Self-assessment
Three questions. When you check your answers you will see the explanation for each one.
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They have the most evidence; sun protection stops it progressing.
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That reduces irritation and helps people stick with it.
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Above that it is not an over-the-counter cosmetic in the EU.
Training content. It does not replace the summary of product characteristics or clinical judgement.