Oily skin: Controlling oil without being harsh

What it is

Oily skin produces more sebum over the whole face: shine a few hours after cleansing, visible pores and a tendency to blackheads. The most common mistake is trying to "dry it out" with harsh cleansers, alcohol and daily exfoliation: the skin becomes irritated and dehydrated, and the shine does not improve.

What works is gentle cleansing, light non-comedogenic moisturisers, and an active that regulates oil or keeps pores clear, such as niacinamide or salicylic acid.

What it needs

Three things:

Cleansing twice a day with a gentle gel, without scrubbing or drying
Light hydration: oily skin also gets dehydrated, and then feels tighter and more irritable
A regulating active: niacinamide helps with oil and texture, and salicylic acid gets into the pore and helps with blackheads

At the counter

When to recommend it

Shine over the whole face soon after cleansing
Visible pores and blackheads
People looking for light textures that do not add oil
As prevention in those with occasional spots

When not to

Frequent inflamed spots, nodules or scarring: acne a doctor should assess
Irritated or stinging skin: first restore the barrier, without actives
Salicylic acid in pregnancy without checking, and retinol in pregnancy
Alcohol-based cleansers or daily exfoliation "to dry" the skin

What to say at the counter. Your skin should not be dried out, it should be balanced. A gentle gel, a light moisturiser and one active to regulate oil. If you scrub or dry it, it will produce even more shine.

Warnings

Important Salicylic acid and retinol together, when starting, usually irritate: introduce them separately.
Important Retinol: avoid in pregnancy and when trying to conceive. Salicylic acid in pregnancy: check first.
Caution Drying the skin with alcohol or exfoliating daily irritates it and does not reduce shine.
Caution If there are frequent inflamed spots, see the acne-prone skin routine and consider referral.
Worth knowing Non-comedogenic means formulated not to clog pores; it is not an absolute guarantee.

The routine, step by step

Morning

Cleanse. Gentle gel; may contain low-strength salicylic acidRemoves overnight oil without leaving the skin tight.
Active. Niacinamide as a serum or in the moisturiser itselfHelps regulate oil and improve texture.
Moisturise. Non-comedogenic gel or fluidHydrates without clogging pores.
Sunscreen. Fluid or gel, dry finish, SPF 30 or higherLight textures do not add shine.

Evening

Cleanse. The same gentle gelRemoves sunscreen, make-up and the day's oil.
Active. Salicylic acid two or three nights a week, or low-strength retinolKeeps pores clear; better not both on the same night at first.
Moisturise. Light non-comedogenic gel-creamOffsets the dryness actives can cause.

Niacinamide vs salicylic acid

Aspect	Niacinamide	Salicylic acid
What it does	Helps regulate oil and texture	Exfoliates inside the pore
Blackheads	Helps little	Useful
Tolerability	Good	Can dry or irritate
Frequency	Daily	Two or three times a week at first
Pregnancy	Considered acceptable	Check first

Niacinamide as the daily base; salicylic acid if there are blackheads, building up frequency.

Self-assessment

Three questions. When you check your answers you will see the explanation for each one.

What is the most common mistake with oily skin? Trying to "dry it out" with harsh products Moisturising it Using sunscreen
Which active gets into the pore and helps with blackheads? Salicylic acid Hyaluronic acid Vitamin E
Someone with oily skin also has painful nodules and some scarring. What do you do? Recommend a clay mask Recommend daily salicylic acid Refer them to a doctor

Training content. It does not replace the summary of product characteristics or clinical judgement.

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