What it is
Ceramides are natural lipids (sphingolipids) that make up about 50% of the skin's lipid barrier, together with cholesterol and free fatty acids. They are essential for holding in water and protecting against irritants. They are lacking in conditions such as atopic dermatitis or severe dryness.
Applying them to the skin helps restore barrier function. Especially important for sensitive and dry skin and in dermatitis. They work well with humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin).
Mechanism of action
They restore:
- The structure of the lipid barrier: ceramides + cholesterol + fatty acids
- Greater cohesion between the cells of the stratum corneum
- Less transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
At the counter
When to recommend it
- Atopic dermatitis (as an add-on to emollients)
- Severe dry skin
- Damaged skin barrier
- Chemical sensitivity (chronic irritation)
When not to
- Known allergy
- Acne-prone skin (they can be occlusive if badly formulated)
- Active inflammatory acne
Warnings
- Caution Formulation: ceramides work better with cholesterol and fatty acids in a balanced ratio (studies use 3:1:1).
- Caution Occlusion: on acne-prone skin they can make things worse if poorly formulated.
- Caution In dermatitis, combine with the prescribed treatment (topical corticosteroids).
- Caution Excellent safety on sensitive skin.
Pharmacokinetics
- Absorption
- Local skin absorption. They become part of the lipids of the stratum corneum.
- Distribution
- Mainly local action in the skin barrier.
- Metabolism
- They are incorporated into the local lipid matrix.
- Elimination
- Part is shed with the turnover of the stratum corneum.
Ceramides vs hyaluronic acid
| Aspect | Ceramides | Hyaluronic acid |
|---|---|---|
| Mechanism | Restores the lipid barrier | Hydrates (humectant) |
| Barrier repair | Direct (it is a component) | Indirect (reduces irritation) |
| Reducing TEWL | Direct and strong | Moderate |
| Moisturising | Moderate (lipids) | Excellent (humectant) |
| Compatibility | Excellent (they work together) | They work together |
Ceramides to restore the barrier. Hyaluronic acid for moisture. They are used together.
Self-assessment
Three questions. When you check your answers you will see the explanation for each one.
-
Ceramides are a natural component of the barrier. They replace what is missing in dry skin and dermatitis.
-
The natural lipid barrier has a specific ratio. Formulas with a balanced ratio are more effective.
-
Well-formulated ceramides can be used on mildly acne-prone skin. Avoid them with severe inflammatory acne.
Training content. It does not replace the summary of product characteristics or clinical judgement.