What it is
Sensitive skin reacts with itching, stinging or redness to products or conditions other skins tolerate: cosmetics, cold, heat, wind. Often it is not skin that was "born" sensitive but skin whose barrier has been damaged by too many products, over-exfoliation or actives that add up.
That is why the first step is almost always to take away, not add: cut the routine to the minimum, with no fragrance or alcohol, and let the barrier recover before introducing anything new.
What it needs
Three things:
- Fewer products: the fewer ingredients, the fewer chances to react
- Fragrance-free and alcohol-free formulas with soothing, repairing ingredients (ceramides, glycerin, panthenol, colloidal oatmeal, centella)
- Well-tolerated sun protection: on very reactive skin, mineral filters tend to irritate less
At the counter
When to recommend it
- Itching, stinging or tightness with many cosmetics
- Passing redness with cold, heat or after applying a product
- After irritation from actives (retinol, acids)
- As a recovery routine before reintroducing actives
When not to
- Persistent redness with bumps on the cheeks and nose: may be rosacea, refer
- A reaction with significant swelling, blisters or one that spreads: refer
- Trying several new products at once
- Exfoliants and retinol while the skin stings
Warnings
- Important Significant swelling, blisters or a spreading reaction after a product: stop it and refer.
- Important Persistent redness with bumps on the central face may be rosacea: it needs a medical diagnosis.
- Caution Fragrance is one of the most common causes of contact dermatitis from cosmetics.
- Caution Before using a new product on the whole face, try it for a few days on a small area.
- Worth knowing "Hypoallergenic" does not guarantee no reaction. In pregnancy this routine, without actives, can be kept up.
The routine, step by step
Morning
- Cleanse. Lukewarm water or a very gentle fragrance-free cleanserThe less the skin is handled in the morning, the better.
- Moisturise. Fragrance-free soothing cream with ceramides or panthenolRepairs the barrier, which is what reduces reactivity.
- Sunscreen. SPF 30 or higher, fragrance-free; mineral if chemical filters stingProtect without adding irritation.
Evening
- Cleanse. Fragrance-free milk or micellar cleanser, rinsed off with waterRemoves sunscreen without rubbing.
- Moisturise. The same soothing creamConsistency: the barrier recovers over weeks.
- Actives. None at first; later, one at a time and patch-tested on a small areaThat way you know what it tolerates and what it does not.
Mineral vs chemical filter on sensitive skin
| Aspect | Mineral | Chemical (organic) |
|---|---|---|
| How it protects | Reflects and absorbs with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide | Absorbs radiation |
| Tolerability on reactive skin | Usually better | Some filters can sting |
| Texture | May leave a white cast | Lighter and clearer |
| Protection | Good if the SPF is adequate | Good if the SPF is adequate |
| When to choose it | If chemical filters sting | If well tolerated |
Neither is always better: the one the skin tolerates and that gets used every day is the right one.
Self-assessment
Three questions. When you check your answers you will see the explanation for each one.
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Reactivity often comes from too many products or actives: take away before adding.
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Fragrances are one of the most frequent causes of contact dermatitis from cosmetics.
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That way any reaction stays limited and you know which product caused it.
Training content. It does not replace the summary of product characteristics or clinical judgement.