What it is
Centella asiatica (also called gotu kola) is a medicinal plant whose active components (asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid) promote collagen synthesis and wound repair. It is healing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant.
Especially useful for skin irritated after a procedure (laser, peel), dermatitis, minor wounds and redness. It is very well tolerated and combines with other actives.
Mechanism of action
It works through:
- Stimulation of collagen and elastin synthesis in fibroblasts
- An antioxidant effect
- A local anti-inflammatory effect: it reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines
At the counter
When to recommend it
- Irritated / inflamed skin after a procedure (laser, peel, dermabrasion)
- Dermatitis (atopic, seborrhoeic)
- Redness and sensitivity (mild rosacea)
- Minor wounds and healing scars
When not to
- Known allergy to centella
- Deep, infected or non-healing wounds: they need assessment
- As a substitute for medical treatment in dermatitis that is not improving
Warnings
- Caution Speed of repair: gradual (visible improvement in irritation in 7–14 days).
- Caution Synergy: it combines well with niacinamide (both soothing).
- Caution Not a 'magic repair': it is supportive and does not replace active treatments.
- Caution Very well tolerated; even so, allergic contact dermatitis has been described (rare).
Pharmacokinetics
- Absorption
- Moderate skin absorption. The active components reach the epidermis and dermis.
- Distribution
- Mainly local action in the dermis.
- Metabolism
- Local metabolism.
- Elimination
- Shed with cell turnover; minimal systemic absorption.
Centella asiatica vs allantoin
| Aspect | Centella asiatica | Allantoin |
|---|---|---|
| Healing | Excellent (stimulates collagen synthesis) | Good (gently keratolytic) |
| Inflammation | Very effective at reducing it | Moderate |
| Antioxidant | Yes | Minimal |
| Mechanism | Multiple (synthesis, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory) | Local keratolytic |
| Use alongside actives | Excellent | Similar |
Centella asiatica to soothe and support repair. Allantoin to smooth and soothe more simply. They are often found together.
Self-assessment
Three questions. When you check your answers you will see the explanation for each one.
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Centella is not an antiseptic but a regenerative agent. It stimulates matrix synthesis for healing.
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After a procedure, the instructions of the professional who did it come first. Centella fits well in the recovery phase, always in products without acids or retinoids.
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Centella is very well tolerated long term. Like any plant extract it can cause a contact allergy, although this is rare.
Training content. It does not replace the summary of product characteristics or clinical judgement.